Many different cities in one
When I visited St Petersburg I had the profound impression that this struggle
for a so much desired 'western' standard of living and culture still lay at the
heart of the city's soul. St Petersburg is many different cities all in one: men in
Lexus cars and women in Fendi furs line the same streets in which the public
trams and buses with gaping holes in their sides pass, transporting masses of
colourless workers from and to their homes and workplaces. An advertisment
for the latest Nokia 3G phone is glued onto a panel by two men who make
barely enough money to use a public phone once a month. St Petersburg
houses both the people who can afford the most luxurious lifestyle as well as
those for whom, essentially, nothing has changed.
Fifteen years ago communism reigned, and when it fell, the glorious entrance
of a 'western-style' democracy where everyone would profit seemed not far off.
But walking around St Petersburg, one has the impression that on the outside,
some of its inhabitants may proudly sip Capuccino and wear Prada boots, but
that on the inside, in people's minds and families, nothing much has changed. I
met a photographer called
'Valentine', who knew both the Spice Girls and the
grim circumstances of some inhabitants of the city of Peter.
SS Peter and Paul Fortress
This fortress on an island in the Neva river also
houses the SS Peter and Paul Cathedral, which
was one of the first buildings to be erected by
Peter the Great. The Czar himself is buried
inside this cathedral, along with many members
of his family and the ruling dynasty of the
Romanovs. The bell-tower was apparently made
this high so that Peter could use it to oversee
the construction of 'his' city from its top. I cannot
but wonder if Peter would have liked to still
stand there in our time, looking out over the city
he created as window on the west, now
embracing the west with a still tighter grip forced
by some, unnoticed by most.
SS Peter and Paul
Cathedral
(c) bibloi.com
Exploring St Petersburg
As this section is being fleshed out, you will find my attempt to capture the
essence of St Petersburg in
five things, fun recipes and facts about St
Petersburg cuisine as well as descriptions of various interesting sites and
sights.
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st petersburg
city of extremes
(c) bibloi.com
In 2003, it was exactly 300 years ago
that Peter the Great, the Russian Czar, ordered
the first stone building to be erected in what
would become the city named after himself: St
Petersburg. Peter had founded the city as a
'window on the West' were he had lived
incognito for a long time learning its
ways and wonders. The Czar had decided Russia needed to model itself on
the western powers in order to reach their standard of living and culture.

Lack of Style
The city's canals were added because Peter the Great loved the canals of
Amsterdam, Catherine the Great had a weakness for neo-classicist buildings
and laid them out wherever she found space available whilst most monasteries
were built in a curious russian version of European baroque. In its 300 years of
existence it has had its share of (famous) architects and town-planners do their
work masterfully and beautifully, but the result of all their work is that the city
looks like a mix of the 'greatest hits' of many European cities with a Russian
glazing here and there. "The city's style is defined by a lack of its own style" to
parafrase Dostoyevski.
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