In the national archives of Italy, there still exists a warning letter from the
government of Venice (then independent) to the nuns of the convent of St
Matthew on an island in the Venetian Lagoon, telling them to cut down on the
number of Bussolai that they consumed around Easter, or they would be in
money-troubles.
  The same dough is used for both the ‘Bussolai’ and the ‘Essi’, the only
difference being the shape. The Bussolai (from the word ‘busa’, dialect for
‘hole’) are ring-shaped and thus have a hole in the centre, while the ‘Essi’ are
shaped like the letter ‘S’. In theory, the ‘Bussolai’ and ‘Essi’ should only be
made in the baker’s wood-oven, since the temperature reached in these ovens
cannot be reached at home. In Venice many people make the dough at home
and take it to the baker’s. At Easter, long queues of people wanting to have
their ‘Bussolai’ and ‘Essi’ baked can be found in front of any Baker’s shop.  
These cookies are usually an after-dinner treat, when they are served with a
glass of one of the many locally produced sweet wines. The ‘Essi’, because of
their elongated shape, are easy to dip into your glass and let it soak up some
of the wine.
INGREDIENTS

5 parts of flour

3 parts of sugar

1 egg-yolk per
150 grams of flour

1 ½ part of butter

vanilla flavouring

grated lemon peel
PREPARATION


Pre-heat the oven at 200 ˚C. Melt the butter on very
low gas, and take of the gas when done. Mix the flour
and sugar in a large bowl. Add the egg-yolks in the
middle and start to mix with the flour and sugar in
circular movements, going from the inside towards the
outside of the bowl.
Once they are mixed, pour the luke-warm butter into
the bowl and mix quickly (the butter cannot be too hot
or the eggs will fry!). Add the vanilla and the grated
lemon peel. Knead the dough until elastic and firm.
Add some milk if the dough is too dry. Use the dough
the form rings of 5 centimetres in diametre for
‘Bussolai’, or make them into ‘S’ shapes of about 8
centimetres high for ‘Essi’. Put them in the oven on a
buttered oven-dish for about 15 minutes.
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This traditional Venetian delicacy
is typical of Easter, tough
nowadays they are made
throughout the year. Because of
the period in which they are
traditionally made, the Bussolai
and Essi contain many eggs (or
rather egg-yolks); the egg is the
symbol of rebirth and
resurrection.
i Bussolai e
gli Essi
Venetian 'resurrection' biscuits
Words: Boyd van Hoeij
Publication: December  2003
Photo: (c) freefoto.com
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